My partner and I spent three weeks travelling through California and Arizona in May and June, ticking off some serious bucket list destinations. I did lots of research building up to this, so feel free to use the itinerary as a base! I have lots of tips to share.
Note, we like to do roadtrips somewhat relaxed – every stop was at least two nights and we ensured we were rarely driving more than 4-6 hours a day so that we had more room for improv stops when we wanted. No hooning down the Pacific Highway one, as then you miss all the fun!
Itinerary
- Days 1-5 (4 nights): San Fransisco
- Days 5-7 (2 nights): Sonoma Valley
- Days 7-9 (2 nights): Monterey
- Days 9-13 (4 nights): Los Angeles (Venice Beach)
- Days 13-16 (3 nights): Palm Springs
- Days 16-18 (2 nights): Grand Canyon South Rim
- Days 18-21 (3 nights): Las Vegas
San Fransisco (4 nights)
We arrived here the Friday of Memorial Weekend, and I had expected the city to be super busy. It was actually almost deserted.
We covered quite a few KM’s in our few days in the city, quite impressive considering all the hills and elevation! We didn’t pick up the rental car till the last day, you just don’t need it. In fact, there were signs everywhere saying to watch out for car break ins, mainly at touristy spots – so we were fine with not having that overhead!
Where to stay: Hotel Griffon near the Ferry Building. We had booked a room that was no longer available due to a water leak and the staff went out of their way to apologise and make it up to us with three bottles of wines, chocolate and a voucher for Perry’s restaurant. It was a very warm welcome after a long flight. The only down side to this area is there’s not a heck of a lot of restaurants or nightlife – but it suited us just fine!
Wander and see:
- The Mission District for a colourful display of the city’s Latino roots. We were lucky to catch a lively Memorial Weekend parade, did some boutique shopping on Valencia Street (Dog Eared Books and Everlane were a personal highlight), and saw the street art in Clarion Alley.
- Fillmore St for lots of cool shops, restaurants and an easy stop on the way to the peaceful Palace of Fine Arts
- Lombard St; need I say more? Probably one of the most famous streets in the world – certainly one of the steepest
- Haight- Ashbury for 60’s love peace and happiness vibes. An incredibly colourful area which lords back to its hippie roots. Currently a real mix of eclectic stores and hipster boutiques (like The Mellow Haight on Haight St)
- The very touristy Fisherman’s Wharf. A must see nonetheless; mainly for seeing Pier 39 and the California sea lions to be honest. I can appreciate glory of yesteryear piers though.
- Twin Peaks for a good climb and some great views
- Golden Gate park for some bison spotting, peaceful wanders, and de Young museum for some fine art
What to do:
- SF MoMA for your modern art fix
- Alcatraz, book this one a few weeks out. On my last visit 10 years ago we were too late with tickets. The former prison island did not disappoint, and was a major highlight. I didn’t realise it was also quite the bird sanctuary which added another dimension. Note that Alcatraz City Cruises are the only provider that are allowed to dock on the island
- The Ferry Building for some cute shops and some great food spots. We also stumbled onto the Saturday market there.
- Alamo Square & The Painted ladies, a good place to have a sit and a picnic and enjoy the famous houses.
- 16th Avenue Tiled steps for some elevation, views, art and foliage in one!
- Fort point and/ or battery Spencer on the other side of the bridge for some sick shots of the Golden Gate Bride
Where to eat:
- The bird for really good fried chicken burgers
- Yank Sing for some classic dim sum in a slightly upscale venue
- Tacolicious for unlimited salsa and chips, La Taqueria for a local experience, and Emmy’s spaghetti shack for pasta – all in the Mission District
- Daily Driver bagels were my breakfast every day; a short walk from the hotel in the Ferry Building
Sonoma Valley (2 nights)
After picking up the rental car and stopping for some bridge pics, we headed out for the good hours drive to Sonoma. We stopped at Sausalito on the way to meander through the small seaside town with the stunning Bay Area views. Would recommend stopping for Fish and Chips, wandering Pelican Yacht harbour and nosing in Books by the Bay before you head further North.
Stay: Sonoma Creek Inn for quaint roadside motel vibes in the small town of Sonoma, surrounded by wineries.
What to do:
- Sonoma plaza and all the shops, cafe’s, restaurants which surround it
- Sonoma Tuesday Night Market for some real atmosphere, good food and local wares. We arrived on a Tuesday so this was the top tip we received from the staff at the Inn
- Presidio of Sonoma for some local history
Where to eat:
- Sunflower Cafe for some pretty hipster brunch. Maybe skip if you don’t want to feel like you’re back in a much more metropolitan space where people wait in line for eggs
- La Bamba Taco Truck. I ate my burrito in the bathtub after the full force of the Lasseter family wine tasting hit me
- The Girl & The Fig for some decent French fare with a heavily American influence
- Danish & Donuts for fresh and homemade donuts. Ideal for picking up before you hit the road again
Major Highlight alert: Lasseter Family Winery
We couldn’t stay in Sonoma Valley without partaking in a local wine tasting. These were however, incredibly expensive we found. Having done this before in Martinborough, NZ for free – the $40-150 pp fees took me by surprise. Instead of visiting multiple like we initially wanted, we decided to just focus on one and do a full tasting + winery tour. After a bit of research we decided that Disney & Pixar film man John Lasseter family’s winery would be our stop. The wineries’ logo is a nod to the 1984 movie André & Wally B, which was his first computer animated project.
We opted for the vineyard tour & tasting at $75 pp, and got our guide’s full attention as we were the only ones at lunch time on a Wednesday.
We toured the winery, sipping different wines at different locations. A highlight were the heritage blocks of 100 year old Zinfandel vines; we also got to taste their yield of course!
Our favourite wine was the Zut Alors; lemony, honeysuckle, jasmine and orange blossom. We bought two bottles, which we proceeded to lug cross country and all the way back home to drink with family. The main tasting area was lined with blooming jasmine, the smell of which I will forever associate with this place and this core memory.
Monterey (2 nights)
We headed back via San Fransisco, to start following Pacific Highway 1 down to Monterey. This is only about 3 hours, so we recommend stopping to admire the coastline – at Bonny Doon beach and/or a slightly longer stop in Santa Cruz. We ate at Dad’s luncheonette in Half Moon Bay, for very decent sandwiches prepared in an old caboose.
Where to stay: The Stevenson Monterey for a budget friendly, pleasant stay near enough to old Fisherman’s Wharf. If you’d prefer to be near cannery row, the aquarium and the sea, you could try Wave Street Inn at a similar price point, or splurge for a seaside view at Spindrift Inn.
What to do:
- Old Fisherman’s Wharf for a lot of vibrant colours, sea lions, and that glory of yesteryear pier vibe – but far smaller than Pier 39 in SF
- Follow the shore via the 20 min walkway from Old fisherman’s Wharf to Cannery Row to see harbour seals, sea lions and great views on the way! We particularly enjoyed the Cannery Row Antiques Mall.
- Take a 10 minute drive to Carmel-by-the-Sea and just drive around the neighbourhoods for some wacky cottage core yet luxurious vibes. My partner is a Frank Lloyd Wright fan so we also stopped to look at the Clinton Walker House near the beach. It’s a private property, so keep that in mind if you go
- Monterey Bay Aquarium if you love all things under the sea or have kids. This is one of the most well known aquariums in the world, we prioritized the aforementioned things but would have visited if we were staying longer
Where to eat:
- Hula’s Island Grill for vibrant tiki decor, friendly people and Hawaiian eats. They also have a Santa Cruz location
- Heirloom Pizza is something we still talk about – they specialise in Chicago style deep dish pizza. We ordered two and had leftovers for lunch en route to LA the next day
- Revival Ice – cream for dessert or a mid day snack
- Dutch Door Donuts in Carmel Plaza – this place makes your donuts while you wait and watch, so they’re uber fresh.
- From Scratch Restaurant for a really hearty all American brunch before you head to Point Lobos
Major Highlight Alert: Point Lobos State Natural Reserve
This State park was not only a Monterey highlight but ended up being our favourite expectation exceeder of the entire trip. We decided to do this instead of the better know 17 Mile Drive (egged on by the locals at From Scratch who said it was incredibly overrated). We spent a whole morning here, walking the trails, watching the many birds and marvelling at the gloomy, fog covered landscape – quite the ethereal experience.
My partner shot a whole roll of film here because it was so breathtaking in those conditions.
We advise that you just wander and wander, but here are some highlights and facts:
- A day pass for one vehicle is $10 at the time of writing
- The Whaler’s Cabin Museum by Whaler’s Cove
- Cyprus grove – these local trees are said to be some of the most photographed trees in North America. You can spot them in Monterey too, but it’s amazing to consider that these trees are hard wearing enough to flourish in such harsh conditions. They are battered by salt and sea, perched precariously on the rock cliffs along the coast line
- Sea Lion point trail – we could only hear them because of the dense fog
- Depending on the time you visit, watch out for the state birds; California Quails and their young (at a respectable distance of course)
Los Angeles (4 nights)
This would be one of the longest drives on this trip, as we wanted to follow the Pacific Coast Highway almost the whole way down, through Malibu and ending at Venice Beach.
On the drive we recommend stopping for some shots of Bixby Creek Bridge. Made famous for me (and probably many other non Californians) by Reese Witherspoon’s series Big Little Lies. I had researched Nepenthe as a worthy, quirky restaurant to stop at for lunch along the way – but the aforementioned Heirloom Pizza leftovers were enough to keep us going.
Elephant Seal Vista Point smells terrible, but is a fascinating stop. There are volunteers in blue jackets keen to tell you more about these creatures and this popular breeding spot.
Where to stay: my favourite part of LA is Venice Beach, we stayed at The Kinney, right off Abbot Kinney Blvd. Venice Beach House was a close second, a great option if you’d rather be closer to the beach.
What to do:
- Abott Kinney Blvd for some great boutique shopping and a bit of dining. My highlights were Canadian jewellery store Mejuri, Vardagen for punky cool statement tees and Cuyana for beautiful but clean leather bags.
- Wander the Venice Canals, see the houses and imagine living there…
- Santa Monica Pier and quirky Venice Boardwalk – a must do no matter how many times I go to LA
- Melrose Trading Post for vintage finds and local wares
- Melrose Ave for some really beautiful retail experiences from well known high street and designer brands
- The Grove and Westfield Century City as aesthetic mall options
- The Getty Center in the hills – only pay for parking ($20), entry is free. Great place for modern art, but mostly for the location and views if you have the privilege of being surrounded by lots of art museums living in Europe.
Where to eat:
- Salt & Straw artisan Ice cream – they have locations all over the West Coast and Vegas. It was expensive, but seriously good!
- USofE Coffee Cafe Venice, right next to an F45 if you wanted to combine a workout and coffee.
- C&O Restaurant – I went here with my family more than 10 years ago on our first night in Venice. The bouncer at a nearby club gave my dad the tip because of the amazing garlic balls. They are buttery and garlicky and constantly topped up as men with big plates of them serve all the tables. On our first night in Venice I took my partner to relive this childhood memory, and it was just as good this time around
- Casablanca – a dining highlight to be sure. Amazing authentic Mexican where the highlights are the Margherita cart and the fresh flour tortillas made in the middle of the 1942 namesake-movie-themed restaurant. I have never tasted better and still dream about the make your own fish tacos I had
- The Original Farmer’s Market for fresh ingredients and local eateries – Bob’s Coffee & Doughnuts in particular.
- Canter’s Deli has been serving fine deli foods since 1931, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Enjoy their coveted pastrami sandwiches in a 1950’s style (albeit more former glory than golden age) diner decor
Palm Springs (3 nights)
A 2,5 hour drive away from the ocean front of Venice lies the dessert. Palm Springs is a resort city made famous by its art deco and 1930’s Hollywood glamour style. It used to be a vacation spot for Hollywood’s elite, and is where Marilyn Monroe was discovered. It’s also located right next to the Coachella Valley. If you’re into some outlet shopping you can visit Desert Hills Premium Outlets on the way.
Where to Stay: Palm Mountain Resort & Spa, which we chose for its well priced central location and modern and palm tree aesthetic.
What to do:
- Visit the 8 metre Forever Marilyn statue and marvel at the more than 100 shades of pink and nudes that Seward Johnson used to try and get her skin colour just right
- Visit the Palm Springs Art Museum; great for midday when it’s too hot to be outside in the Summer
- Drive around suburbs to see some beautiful examples of mid century architecture, even better – take this self guided tour
- Partake in some very early morning hiking in Tahquitz or Andreas Canyons
- Experience Dick Curtis’ living, breathing movie set created in 1944; Pioneertown (otw to Joshua Tree National Park)
- Set off very early or late afternoon for Joshua Tree National Park. We did both times at different days because of the heat
Where to eat:
- Lappert’s Super Premium Ice – Cream; they do a Disney Dole Whip style too
- Farm for a French inspired hearty American brunch
- Rooster and the pig, delicious Vietnamese – just be prepared to wait a bit on busy days as it’s very small
- Bill’s Pizza, nothing fancy – just honest, make-your-own pizza
- Hole in the wall Mexican Street Tacos in Twentynine Palms after spending time in Joshua Tree. Near the North entrance
Major Highlight Alert: Joshua Tree National Park. This may seem like a no brainer, but this exceeded my expectations honestly. You really have to let the high temperatures and heat lead you here, so we went one late afternoon till sunset, and one early morning. Bring lots and lots of water and tell someone where you’re going as there’s no cell service.
Going in the late afternoon is definitely better than the morning if you also want more dramatic shadows and better light for photos.
Highlights (photos speak more than words here):
Grand Canyon (2 nights)
We made this leg of the journey a bit longer as we wanted to pick up historic Route 66 near Amboy and follow it all the way to Williams. Totally worth it to see an abandoned motel in Amboy, wander the artifacts in the grounds of Goffs old schoolhouse and see the donkeys living with the locals in old Western, kitschy, Oatman on the way.
Where to stay: Under Canvas Grand Canyon for glamping, live music, morning yoga, (kid friendly) activities, s’mores bar and a kitchen which serves breakfast and dinner. It’s 40 minutes from the Southern rim, but we didn’t mind. The aforementioned things made it very much worth it.
Since our only reason for this stop was to see the Grand Canyon, here are some tips & highlights:
- This is documented everywhere on signs, online, the visitors centres and is common sense, yet lots of people still ignore it. Respect the conditions and hike before 10am or after 4pm. We were there in June when the inner rim was 40 degrees Celsius, but this goes for about half the year. See the National Park Service site for up to date info; and follow it
- Do the Bright Angel trail till the Mile-and-a-half rest house where you can go toilet and fill up your bottle for the way back. This is still a descend equal to the Eiffel Tower into the Canyon, but still takes a few hours at a leisurely pace.
- Keep in mind that going down is ‘easy’, you’ll need much more energy for the way back – know your limits
- Try the trail of time with kids, or if you’d rather stay at the top of the Canyon. You literally go through time and learn all about the geological history of the biggest hole in the ground
- Going late afternoon means better light as the sun sets, and cooler temperatures when you’re ascending
- People stand in hour long car lines waiting to get into the National Park at peak times; another reason to go very early or late
Las Vegas (3 nights)
Our final stop after three weeks was the City of Sin, a pretty leisurely four hour drive from Under Canvas. We recommend stopping by the impressive Hoover Dam on the way. An alternative is starting your day at Bearizona before you hit the road. This was a highlight for my sister when she was in the area.
Where to stay: NoMad Las Vegas for a more boutique hotel experience of a hotel inside the much larger Park MGM. The benefit of both of these are they are smoke free, which I appreciated as I walked around other resorts and their casinos. After seeing quite a few hotels during our stay we decided we’d do The Venetian or the The Bellagio next time. We dropped off the car as soon as we arrived so didn’t have to worry about parking.
What to do:
- Wander the strip and the different resorts. We loved just seeing the over the top resorts, partaking in some gambling, and taking photos. For us this was most of the fun as we’re not really into nightlife. This includes the Fountains of the Bellagio and the Mirage volcano at night
- The Neon Museum; where colourful signs from all over town and yesteryear go to die… and be appreciated by visitors!
- Go to Omega Mart for an immersive art experience meets escape-room-ish. It’s best to go into this without any knowledge of what you’re in for, and see where it takes you
- If you’d prefer to see the Grand Canvas from Vegas instead of making a separate stop like we did, or want to do some more adventurous things – try Pink Jeep Adventure Tours
Where to eat:
- Best friend in the Park MGM for Korean- Mexican fusion by LA chef Roy Choi
- La La Noodle in the Park MGM for really good dumplings and pad thai
- Eggslut in the Cosmopolitan was our daily breakfast stop. Bit of a hype though so be prepared to line up
Then we flew back to Amsterdam very fulfilled. Can’t wait to plan another US roadtrip again! Where do you recommend we go?
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